Graph Paper Design Squares
The Stitch And Row Gauge Swatch
Are you tired of spending hours knitting a sweater only to find out that it would fit a child or, worse yet, you and several friends? What you want is a sweater custom made to your size.
A stitch and row gauge swatch is, unquestionably, the most essential factor in knitting a vest that fits YOU.
Knitting a gauge swatch might seem like an annoying pre-requisite to your knitting project. However, the time you spend knitting this little 4-inch square and the attention given to the achieving accurate measurements are very important. The result is a finished sweater knit to the given measurements and exactly the size you intended it to be.
A gauge swatch is a measurement tool – a method of figuring out how many stitches and rows are required over a specific area in order to achieve a specific set of measurements. The gauge swatch measurements are calculated using a 10-centimeters, or 4 inch square.
Consequently, a fingering weight yarn may knit up at 32 to 40 stitches over 4 inches while a bulky or roving weight yarn produces no more than 8-10 stitches over the same 4 inches. Yarn weight affects the row count in a parallel manner. When the skein band does not specify a row gauge, it is particularly important to accurately measure the rows, as this number will affect the length of both the sleeves and the sweater body..
Created by multiples of these 4-inch square areas, the basic body block surfaces for a specific size – the back, front, and the two sleeves – begin to take shape. Decreases at the armholes, neckline and shoulders, reduce the surface area of the “squares”. A combination of decreases and increases modify to the overall surface area to create various design elements and the shaping process produces a finished garment in a precise or customized size and style.
The stitch and row gauge swatch must match the gauge suggested in the knitting pattern. Let’s face it, it is easier to work with an accurate stitch and row gauge than it is to make major adjustments to the pattern instructions due to inaccuracies in the gauge. It is easy to ignore seemingly insignificant differences in your gauge versus the original “stitches and rows” but doing so will result in a sweater that is too small or too large.
Ignore what seems like a tiny difference in the gauge and it will grow over the circumference of the sweater body or length of the finished sweater.
Knit a stitch & row swatch even if you are using the yarn called for in the pattern. It is more a matter of determing how you knit (tight or loose) because it can make a world of difference even if you using the correct needle size and the same yarn used to knit the model.
To acheive the required gauge, you may have to change to larger or smaller knitting needles.
Darker colors tend to be denser than the lighter colors. A different gauge will also affect the drape of the knit fabric – too tight and your sweater will feel like a suit of armor and too loose will have your sweater eventually handing around your knees.
The only items you will need, besides the tension swatch itself, are a sharp pencil, a note pad, a transparent metric ruler, and a calculator. You can also use a ¼-inch graph paper pad to record all your calculations and sketch out any changes made to the original instructions. For a perfect fit, you may need to adjust the sleeve length or lengthen the sweater body. Record all the newly adjusted numbers in your pad.
Gauge rulers are available that eliminate the need to plug in metric measurements and perform a short series of calculations. However, it is just as easy to use a plain, metric ruler. A ruler is more accurate than the simple gauge ruler marked off in ¼-inch markings.
Metric measurements are easier to work with than inches. Listed below are important metric conversion factors. Rounded up to the next decimal, these measurements will come in handy when determining yardage per skein or calculating an accurate stitch and row gauge swatch measurement.
1 lb. = 454 (453.6) grams
1 oz. = 28 (28.4) grams
8.8 oz. = 250 grams
15.9 oz = 450 grams
3.527 oz. = 100 grams
1 inch = 2.54 cm
1 cm = .3937 inches
10 cm = 3.937 inches
1 meter = 100 cm = 39.37 inches = 1.0936 (1.094) yards
To knit your favorite pattern in a different yarn all you would need to do is calculate the difference in yardage between the original yarn and the new selection. Begin by comparing the labels – labels may vary in the information they provide but most will also give you meters per grams or yards per ounces.
Your knitting pattern calls for 20 ounces or 568 grams of yarn to complete your sweater (1 ounce = 28.4 grams / 3.52 ounces = 100 grams), in other words approximately 1340 yards of yarn. Twenty ounces represents about six skeins of yarn at 223 yards per 100-gram skein.
- One 100 gram skein of Patons® Classic Merino wool equals 223 yards, so 6 skeins x 223 yards = 1338 yards
- One 100 gram skein of Plymouth’s® Galway wool equals 210 yards, so 6 skeins x 210 yards = 1260 and it means you will need an extra skein.
- One 50 gram skein of KnitPicks® Swish Superwash equals 110 yards, so 6 skeins x 100 yards = 660 yards. However, to come close to the required amount, you will need twice as many because these are 50-gram skeins. Twelve skeins will give you 1320 yards – you still need an extra skein! You will need 13 skeins of this particular yarn to have a comparable amount.
Several other factors can affect the stitch and row gauge. Some knitters knit loosely while others knit very tightly. A tight knit fabric will not only reduce the elasticity of the cast on row but also ultimately tighten up the actual knit fabric and affect the drape of the sweater.
Start a binder with tension swatches of your favorite yarns. Label each sample making sure to include the needle size used to knit the smaple. Include the color number and dye lot. Gently steam block a wool gauge sweatch.. Remember that these are just samples swatches.
You really should prepare a stitch and row swatch for each garment you knit, even though you are familiar with the yarn and have a very good idea of the stitch and row gauge you can achieve on a particular size needle. Do not guess.
Contact us and we’ll help tweak your favorite knitting patterns to achieve a perfect fit. A few accurate measurements are all you need to get started with a custom fit sweater or vest.
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